With crowded streets and bustling markets, curled eaves and pagodas, mysterious alleys, hidden temples, and busy restaurants, Chinatown is easily San Francisco’s most colorful neighborhood. It is also among the cities most famous, and therefore teams with visitors. Beyond the tacky gift shops and tourist traps, there remains an authentic Chinatown well worth exploring. For a peek at this hidden Chinatown, explore the neighborhoods alleyways. Waverly Place is probably the best known and it abounds with Buddhist temples and community associations. In quieter moments you can hear monks and nuns singing and playing Chinese instruments from behind the walls of their sanctuaries. Unfortunately, many of the buildings are not open to the public, one exception being the Tin Hou Temple on Waverly, and the nearby Gold Mountain Monastery on Sacramento (call ahead for hours)

Chinatown Gate: A gloriously decorated gate marks the entry to Grant Avenue's Chinatown. It was unveiled in 1970, and helped secure the street's status as the neighborhood's center. Once you're past the gate, you'll see elaborate 1920s streetlights sculpted to resemble golden dragons lighting the way. Grant Avenue and Bush Street.
Chinese Culture Foundation: Housed on the third floor of the Holiday Inn, the foundation hosts occasional art exhibits and special cultural events. The center also offers the excellent Chinese Heritage Walk ($15) and Chinese Culinary Walk ($30, lunch included). 750 Kearny St., (415) 986-1822.

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