Getting its funky, florid nickname from the days when policemen were paid more to work its mean streets, thereby affording the cops better cuts of meat, the Tenderloin is moving up these days. A heavy influx of Vietnamese families in the last two decades has been instrumental in achieving -- if not entirely responsible for -- its face-lift. And then there are those incredibly delicious sandwiches you can get at the corner markets.

This area is perhaps the last frontier in SF's ever-expanding gentrification trend, and you can still stumble on unpolished gems in the form of incredible cooking, unpredictable bar scenes, independently owned stores and great live music.
The streets aren't the cleanest, and you will be approached frequently by strangers, so just stay alert and don't let it get to you. You have to hunt a little harder for your treasures in the 'Loin, but in a city increasingly headed toward high-end everything, it's a small price to pay.

Alcazar Theatre: Surrounded by brick apartment buildings and cheap hotels, the neighborhood's most ornate building is a historical landmark and home to hit plays ("The Vagina Monologues" enjoyed a long run here). The Byzantine-style structure -- originally built for the Shriners in 1917 -- is sometimes open for self-guided tours, so call ahead for details. 650 Geary St., (415) 441-4042.

Glide Memorial Church: People flock from all over the world to visit this spiritual oasis. Under the guidance and leadership of the Rev. Cecil Williams and Glide Foundation President Janice Mirikitani, this church and social-services nonprofit has become a model for urban community-assistance programs.

It provides free meals, counseling, job training and health services, as well as being home to the most rollicking Sunday celebrations in the City. People line up around the block to hear the Glide Ensemble's gospel, rock and freedom songs and hear the words of SF's most revered minister. 330 Ellis St., (415) 771-6300.

Sgt. John Macaulay Park: Where there was previously a fenced-in trash heap and junkie hangout, there's now a bright, clean and cheerful park. It's mainly a family place, where groups of mothers line the shaded walls as their kids play on primary-colored slides, chutes and jungle gyms. Corner of O'Farrell and Larkin streets. (article)
Street Theater Festival: For six years, the three-day In The Street theater festival has added a much-needed jolt of conviviality to a hardscrabble area on Ellis Street. The festival, produced by the 509 Cultural Center/Luggage Store, features gigantic puppets, trapeze and other circus arts, music, spoken word, improv theater and free workshops in performance and community activism. This year it'll be held Sept. 14-16 (Sept. 14 at 762 Fulton St. in the Western Addition, 5pm-11pm; Sept. 15 and 16 along the 500 block of Ellis Street, between Leavenworth and Hyde streets in the Tenderloin, 12-5:30pm, free). For more information, call the 509 Cultural Center/Luggage Store at (415) 255-5971 or go to www.luggagestoregallery.org.
Mitchell Bros. O'Farrell Theatre: Reliable sources say this is where the most beautiful female strippers in the city work, but there's more to this flesh palace than meets the naked eye. Opened by adult-film pioneers Artie and Jim Mitchell ("Behind the Green Door") in the late '60s, it has been a haunt for randy journalists and rock stars throughout the years.

Scandal erupted in 1991 when Artie, who had become paranoid and addicted to drugs, began leaving death threats on answering machines around town. When Jim went to check on his brother, a fight ensued and Jim shot and killed Artie, and he was convicted of involuntary manslaughter. The theater they created together, however, still thrives with its explicit Green Door show, mysterious Kopenhagen Room and newly added Private Cabana room. 895 O'Farrell St., (415) 776-6686. (Web site)