Russian Hill

RUSSIAN HILL

The summit of Russian Hill became a haven for intellectuals, writers, artists, and architects. Consider that Mark Twain, Jack London, Frank Noris, Ambrose Bierce, and the amazing Willis Polk all enjoyed the creaky narrow stairways, the salubrious air, and the dramatic views. Jack Kerouac pounded out much of his work in Neal Cassady’s tiny attic on Russell place. Russian Hill is meant to be experienced on your feet. Climb towards the summit via the landscaped stairways that cling to the hillside. On the way up you’ll see a lot of San Francisco – the bridges and islands in the bay and beyond –from this serene vantage point. Lombard Street’s twists and turns attract even the most jaded tourists, and the real estate along this landmark is splendid. Should you elect to head down towards North Beach, another city’s landmarks awaits you. Diego Rivera’s mural honoring the American worker in the San Francisco Art Institute.

Focus Gallery: This space features the work of local photographers, offering frequent shows and receptions. A darkroom for black-and-white photography is available for hourly or monthly rental. 2423 Polk St., (415) 567-9067.

Lombard Street: Known as "the world's crookedest street," Lombard winds past ornate houses (one of which was home to the San Francisco edition of "The Real World") and lush, flowering bushes. Between Hyde and Leavenworth streets.

Parks, Gardens and Great Views: Although the bursting hydrangeas along Lombard Street are pretty, there are more leisurely places to enjoy the outdoors. Alice Marble Park, at the corner of Greenwich and Larkin streets, is a block away and offers a stunning view of the neighborhood's historical houses. Ina Coolbrith Park (at the intersection of Taylor and Vallejo streets) has steep steps lined with thick trees and a patch of grass where locals sunbathe (fog permitting) and read. With its sweeping views of the Bay, North Beach, the Bay Bridge and the lower Financial District, it's also a favorite, lesser-known spot to watch fireworks. Adjacent to the park are the Vallejo Ramps -- steep, zigzagging steps -- between Jones and Taylor streets. From there (or anywhere at the top of the hill), the view of the Bay and Alcatraz is stunning. Over at Macondray Lane (known to Armistead Maupin fans as Barbary Lane), get a behind-the-scenes look at life in the neighborhood as you go from busy Union Street to hidden urban gardens.

San Francisco Art Institute: The architects behind San Francisco's City Hall designed this Spanish-style structure, complete with bell tower, in the 1920s. Stop in to view the school's imposing and magnificent Diego Rivera mural, or to take in a student exhibit or artist lecture. The school café is open to the public and offers comforting staples like peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, burgers and just-baked cookies, accompanied by a splendid view of the Bay. 800 Chestnut St., (415) 771-7020. (Web site)

Velvet da Vinci: One of the first galleries to open on the block more than a decade ago, Velvet da Vinci is renowned for its contemporary metalwork. Some of the pieces hanging are accompanied by explanations from the artist. Aside from walls of everything from metal fish to abstracts, Velvet da Vinci focuses on contemporary art and one-of-a-kind jewelry. Exhibits change every six weeks. Closed Mondays. 2015 Polk St. (415) 441-0109.

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